Photography Article How to Master the Heart-Shaped Shadow in Time for Valentines|Photography Artist Statement

Heart-fashioned shadows are an clean and flexible way to create a memorable Valentines' Day photo, and you can even print one to use as a homemade Valentines' Day card. This article will lay out the fundamentals at the back of creating high-quality heart-fashioned shadows on every occasion.

Supplies for Heart-Shaped Shadows

The supplies for casting and capturing heart-shaped shadows are quite simple: a larger-sized book with a lot of pages (large paperbacks are often more flexible) and a circle to cast the heart-shaped shadow. You can use any circular, see-through object to cast the shadows. Rings are popular choices, for their shape and romantic connotations. You can also use a variety of camera accessories that you might already have lying around. All of the heart-shaped shadows in this article were created with either a single extension tube orcolored filters.

Technique and Timing for Heart-Shaped Shadows

The trick behind creating the heart-shaped shadow is shooting near a bright window in the early morning or late afternoon. You want direct light from the sun to create the strongest shadows, and the lower the sun is in the sky, the longer and more prominent the shadow. Right now, if you live in the Northern Hemisphere, a south-facing window is ideal, as the sun is farther south in the sky and casts long shadows during much of the day. Consider also shooting near a glass sliding door or other large window without panes, so you can avoid having window-pane shadows cluttering up your image.

The image above indicates one viable setup. (You can see I had to use a general window and try and shoot around the window-pane shadows.) You want to apply a huge e-book, opened toward the middle, with a view to get a good, symmetrical heart shadow. Here, I changed into the use of a Bible opened to the 1 Corinthians thirteen verses famous at weddings. Since this isn't near the middle of the ebook, you can see that I used a heavy bottle to barely prop up the pages at the right-hand aspect to better fit the curve of the left-hand facet pages.

Secret tip: you could need a bit assist getting your circle to live upright for your e book. The extension tube I used changed into wide sufficient that it may normally rise up and stay by itself without assistance, however the colored filters had been a good deal smaller and had a bent to right away fall over. I used tiny portions of a product called Mini-Hold, a wax adhesive created to maintain dollhouse fixtures and add-ons in area with out leaving residue. Two tiny dots wherein the filter touched the book have been sufficient to maintain the filter out upright and now not be seen within the final image.

Strategies and Reminders

Spend some time thinking about which book and which pages you might want to use for this type of shot. Depending on your angle and aperture, it may be possible to emphasize certain words or phrases in or around the shadow. (This is particularly easy when using a ring to cast shadows, as the smaller heart draws more attention to fewer words.)

These two shots were both taken using the book The Miraculous Journey of Edward Tulane, which is a heart-warming tale of love, childhood, and the bond between people and stuffed animals. I really liked the idea behind top choice, showing the older couple meeting and welcoming Edward, but I felt like the color picture was a bit overwhelming and competed for attention with the heart. The bottom version still gave a hint of the story, in the blurring words and black and white picture, but the empty space gave more emphasis to the heart. I ended up choosing the second image for printing and creating my own Valentines' Day cards.

Also make sure to don't forget your point-of-view and aperture. Experiment with unique angles of capturing, such as straight on and greater off-targeted. Try getting better and lower and see how it impacts the feel of the very last shot. You ought to additionally attempt some distinctive apertures, each wide and narrow, to peer how the special depth of fields (region of the picture in awareness) changes the feel of the final image.

No need to limit yourself to just one shadow, either! Have fun combining multiples and see what kinds of effects you can  create!

Bonus: Book-Heart Valentines' Day Idea

And, since you already have your camera and a large, floppy book out, why not try creating a heart-shaped book too? A large, paperback book works well, as you have lots of pages to work with. The trick here is finding the angle and heart-shape you want and then using a paperclip or small binder clip in the back to hold the heart-shape in place.

Did you try either of these techniques? How did they turn out?  Share a link to your final image or homemade Valentines below.

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Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most from your digicam with practical advice about the technical and creative elements of DSLR images to be able to have you taking beautiful images right away.

Photography Article An Introduction to Filters in Photography|Photography Artist Statement

Filters are an essential photographic tool, and there are numerous different sorts and types to be had. This publish will offer a short assessment of the four maximum common forms of filters used with DSLR cameras, which includes what they may be, how they're used, and instance photographs eager about them. (All filters shown are the real filters that I in my opinion use while shooting.)

Filters are pieces of glass that attach to the the front of your lens and serve quite a few functions. Filters may be for safety or for reaching a positive effect or appearance on your image with out submit-processing.

There are two predominant structures for filters. Most manufacturers make screw-on filters that attach at once to the front of your lens. When purchasing this fashion of clear out, you want to realize the diameter of your lens (indicated with the ? Symbol). While you can attach a couple of clear out on your lens, you could run into the problem of the edges of your clear out showing up in the corners of your picture, that's much less than proper. Also, if you have multiple lenses with specific diameters, you've got to buy separate filters for every one.

The 2nd system for filters is theCokin collection of filters and holders, in which you attach a filter out holder to the front of your lens and the filters themselves are larger than your lens and typically rectangular. With the Cokin system, you honestly purchase a special adjustable piece to attach the holder to lenses of various diameters, but you could use the identical filters on all of your lenses. The Cokin filters generally fee extra up-the front but are well worth it in case you need to use them with exclusive lenses or want to apply many filters concurrently.

Personally, I currently use screw-in filters, and well-regarded brands include Hoya andB+W. If you are already further invested in photography, equipment, and lenses, you may want to consider the Cokin series of filters and holders. I am seriously considering making the switch myself when I can next justify the expense. If you are just starting out and only have a few lenses, then you can stick to screw-on filters, but if you know that you want the flexibility of the Cokin system, then it makes sense to invest in their filters from the start.

UV Filters

UV or ultraviolet filters are among the most common photography filters. Many new camera or new lenses come packaged with UV filters. A UV filter is a basic measure of protection for your camera and your lens. A quality UV filter has no negative impacts on your images or image quality, but the UV filter protects the surface of your lens from direct contact with dust, dirt, sand, fingerprints, and all other matter of debris. A UV filter can also protect your lens from breakage due to human error, especially if you drop or bump the front of your lens up against something. Recommended brands for UV filters includeB+W andHoya. Read more about the importance of UV filters in this post onLens Accessories.

B W UV Filter

Circular Polarizers

A circular polarizer is a two-piece filter. The near piece screws into the front of your lens, and the far piece is free to rotate. Just like polarizing sunglasses or car windows, a circular polarizer changes which wavelengths of light are visible through the filter. This effect can serve to emphasize the blue in blue skies and cut down or eliminate reflections in water.

Hoya Circular Polarizer

(Polarizer tip: if you have a pair of polarizing sunglasses, spend some time tilting and rotating your head while looking up at the blue sky or down at a polarized wind shield. You will get an immediate sense of the impact of a polarizing filter.) Polarizers also eliminate reflections and glare in water and are commonly used in waterfall photography. (Read more inYes, Go Chasing Waterfalls.) You can read more about how to use a circular polarizer in the articleImprove Your Fall Photography: use a polarizer or check out polarizers here.

Neutral Density Filters

A neutral density filter blocks some amount of light from your lens and sensor. These filters are called "neutral" because they should not have any impact on the color or color cast of your final image. (Inexpensive neutral density filters often leave a blue or purple color cast in your photograph.) Being able to cut down on the amount of light reaching your sensor is useful in many situations when you want a longer shutter speed.

Fotga Variable Neutral Density Fader

(This is one I do not propose unless you just want a reasonably-priced filter to see what the results appear to be.)

There are many extraordinary varieties of neutral density filters. The one pictured above is a variable neutral density filter out. Like a circular polarizer, it has two related elements that can be turned around. The version of the left indicates the minimum quantity of mild being blocked, at the same time as the model of the proper shows the maximum quantity of mild being blocked. This permits you to control how an awful lot light is being blocked certainly through turning the filter out. Tiffin makes a well-regarded variable impartial density clear out, however there are many distinctive styles and types of variable impartial density filters or impartial density faders available.

20-2d exposure acquired using a Variable Neutral Density Fader in mid-afternoon

Most neutral density filters are bought in an man or woman "energy" and aren't adjustable. These have a tendency to be of plenty better exceptional than the variable filters. You can stack filters by using screwing multiple directly to every different and adjusting the impact that manner. This is where the Cokin system truely shines, as it's miles very smooth to slot distinctive filters and distinctive strengths in-and-out of the holder, and you may use several ND filters together without risking edges acting on your picture.

Zykkor Split ND Filter

(Again, that is a very reasonably-priced model to attempt out the outcomes. You can already see the red color solid to this clear out.)

Another form of impartial density clear out to bear in mind is the Split Neutral Density. A split ND clear out simplest blocks light from half of of the photo, and you may find each tough break up ND filters (a pointy dividing line within the center) and gradual break up ND filters (a greater gradual transition, like the one proven above). Split ND filters are used when you have a scene this is a whole lot brighter in a single 1/2 of the photo than the alternative. With round break up ND filters, you spin and alter the outer ring to degree the cut up, whilst with the Cokin system of cut up ND filters, you modify the filter out holder itself.

Sunrise shot with the Zykkor Split ND Filter, which allowed notably more shade and light within the mirrored image to stability the brightness of the sky.

Split ND filters are typically utilized by panorama and tour photographers to shoot dawn and sundown photos, in particular with large foregrounds or reflections. In the instance above, you may believe how the sky became tons brighter in reality than its mirrored image inside the water. Using the cut up ND clear out allowed me to better stability the two exposures - making the sky darker in order that each the sky and the water reflection could shine.

Another instance shot with the Zykkor Split ND Filter

For this photo of the sunflowers, I used the break up ND filter once more to block out some of the mild from the sky. Otherwise, the sky would have appeared a good deal lighter, and the hurricane clouds might have lost a number of their darkish and brooding look.

Summary: Filters

There are many different styles, brands, and systems of filters available, and this article has laid out the four most commonly used by photographers. Think about what your current needs are and which filters suit you best. If you do not already have UV filters for your lens, start there. Then, think about what you shoot most. Are you outside where a polarizer would make a big difference? Do you aspire to shoot long, smooth waterfalls or impossibly smooth water shots? Then look into neutral density filters. Do a lot of sunsets or sky photos where a split neutral density filter would make the difference? Worried about the price tag? Consider buying a cheap knock-off ND filter just to try it out. If you are addicted to the look, upgrade. Whatever you choose, spend the time to really get to know your filter and what it can do for you.

Photography Article Improve your Fall Photography: use a polarizer|Photography Artist Statement

October is right here, and the dropping temperatures have raised my pleasure for extremely good fall photography opportunities. Autumn is my favored photographic season, and this post will awareness in on one brief photography device in order to swiftly improve your autumn photographs: the round polarizer.

Autumn Walk with the aid of Archaeofrog on Flickr, captured with a circular polarizer

A circular polarizer is a filter out that attaches to the the front of your lens. Rotating the filter out modifications which wavelengths of mild are seen through the filter. This impact can serve to emphasise the blue in blue skies and reduce down or eliminate reflections in water. A polarizer can genuinely make the colours of fall leaves pop and enliven a brilliant blue background for them too.

Circular Polarizer Comparison by using Archaeofrog on Flickr

These pictures reveal how a polarizing filter can improve an picture. The image on the left changed into shot at f/5, 1/fiftieth of a 2d, while the photo at the left was shot at f/four.5, 1/fortieth of a 2d. Both snap shots were concerned with the polarizing clear out connected to the camera, however the filter out turned into circled in between photographs to first decrease after which maximize the polarizing impact. The impact of the circular polarizer can be visible maximum in reality in the brightening of the sky and inside the extended saturation of the colours inside the right-hand image.

Example of a round polarizer. The shadow is created through the mild-blockading effect of the polarizer.

Tips for Using a Circular Polarizer

First off, a circular polarizer has two elements. The back of the filter contains the threads that allow you to screw it on and attach it to the front of your lens. The front of the filter rotates freely around, allowing you to align and adjust the filter for the look you want. (Some filters, like the Cokin series, have a special holder that then attaches to the lens, but using and rotating the filter works in the same way as described below.) If you use a UV filter on your lens at all times for protection (and you should), then you need to remove the UV filter before attaching the circular polarizer, otherwise you may have an unwanted vignette effect where the circular edges of the polarizer may become visible in the corners of your images, as in the image below.

I screwed multiple filters onto the the front of my lens when taking this photo. As a result, the edges of the filters are visible, created an undesirable vignette impact.

Here?S what no e book ever got here out and told me approximately round polarizers: there's no 'accurate' way to align a polarizer. The first several times I went out and used my first polarizer, I turned into constantly frustrated due to the fact I could not locate any markings to indicate a 'most' or 'minimum' polarizing alignment. I might glance through the viewfinder, spin the polarizer around, and notice not anything going on. I could try taking a photo, rotating the polarizer 90 tiers, take some other photograph, rotate, and so forth. And note no obvious variations among the pix. I finally went so far as to mark the 'pinnacle' of the filter facet with white out, so that I may want to at the least see in which I turned into adjusting it to and from.

I concept I changed into crazy. I have been reading all about photographers raving about their polarizers, and not anything passed off that I should see once I became the usage of it ? Till I took place to goal at some windows.

Changing window visibility with a round polarizer

The home windows of the Red Cross building subsequently confirmed me the effect of what the polarizer should do. At one alignment (left), I ought to see the light shining through the windows and into the rooms inside, but after I began to rotate the polarizer (right), I ought to see the windows emerge as opaque after which almost completely solid. At the time, I did not notice the converting blue colors within the sky, however they have been extra obvious to me whilst viewing the photos on my laptop.

This changing visibility thru the home windows is the equal impact that polarizers have while you are the usage of them to shoot water. At one alignment, the polarizer could be letting in the light going thru the water and display you what's below, while at another alignment, you may most effective see the light bouncing off the water and no longer be capable of see under. Photographers make the most this tendency of polarizers while shooting water to limit the glare or reflections of bouncing light within the image.

After similarly experimentation and studying, I sooner or later understood that a polarizer works great in precise situations. To start, a polarizing filter out clearly works while the solar is at a 90 degree angle for your concern (as in, the sun have to be shining off to considered one of your shoulders). The impact is significantly dwindled if you are facing at once in the direction of or faraway from the solar or if the sun is immediately overhead. Depending at the relative perspective of the solar and your challenge, you could discover that the polarizer creates greater of a gradient than a good color tone across the sky.

Incorrect use of a polarizer can result in a drastic trade in shade and darkness across the sky.

Once you have observed a scene so one can utilize the outcomes of the polarizer, you need to be able to see the adjustments taking place as you rotate the clear out. The blue of the sky is a great region to observe. As you rotate, you will note subtle modifications in the blue from a deeper, darker coloration to a softer, lighter color and again. It is those deep, darkish blues that make the round polarizer popular, however you may choose an in-between model, if it higher fits your vision. This is in which there's no 'accurate' answer. The genuine attitude at which you align the polarizer for the effect you want depends on many factors which includes the angle of the solar in the sky, the perspective of the solar relative to the digital camera, and the angles at which light is bouncing off your concern and into your digicam. So there may be no computerized 'most polarization' placing. If a person had best told me that upfront, I would have felt a ways much less foolish ?

Another factor to preserve in thoughts is that the the usage of a polarizer may also exchange the settings which you want to use for that precise state of affairs. A polarizer, through definition, blocks out positive styles of mild, so while using a polarizer, you may want to use a much broader aperture or a longer shutter velocity to accommodate for that lack of light and make sure a well exposed picture.

Comparison of the effect of a circular polarizer at the sky and autumn leaves.

As an example, if you first composed a scene using aperture priority set at f/8 (for an inexpensive depth of area but nonetheless a short shutter), then the digital camera would possibly suggest a shutter speed of one/one hundredth of a second. If you then connected a circular polarizer for your lens and spun it to maximise the polarizing effect, then your digicam, nonetheless set for f/eight, would possibly now endorse a shutter velocity of 1/50 of a second. (For the technical minded, that is referred to as "one forestall" of mild. A forestall is measured for each doubling or halving of a shutter speed fee. Most polarizing filters bring about a loss of one to 2 stops of mild.) You may need to take into account bringing along a tripod to apply in mixture together with your polarizer, so that you can make sure a consistent image if you use an extended shutter pace. (Read greater approximately the way to Maximize your Tripod right here.)

A very last tip for successfully the usage of a round polarizer: usually rotate the the front of the polarizer the equal path you used to screw it on on your lens. When looking at your lens the front-stop on, the round polarizer screws on within the clockwise route. So, whilst you are rotating the the front a part of the polarizer to alter it, I advocate which you maintain rotating it in that identical clockwise course. That way you keep away from the capability accident of unscrewing the filter out via rotating everything as opposed to just the outer 1/2. Much much less likely to lose or drop or smash a polarizer that way.

Purchasing a Polarizer

There are two types of circular polarizers available for DSLR cameras. The first type is more traditional and is a single filter you buy that screws on to the front of your lens. You will need to buy a polarizer that fits the dimensions (diameter) of your lens. If you want to use your polarizer on more than one lens, and your lenses have different diameters, then you will need to either buy a different polarizer for each lens or buy a polarizer for the largest lens and then buy step-down adapters to use the larger polarizer on the smaller diameter lens. As an example, my Tamron 18-270 mm lens has a diameter of 62 mm, so I purchased a 62 mm Hoya circular polarizing filter for it. When I want to then use that filter on my Canon 18-55 mm kit lens, which has a diameter of 58 mm, I have to also use a 62-to-58 mm step-down adapter to attach the polarizer to the lens. The more lenses you have, the more complicated this can become.

The second type of circular polarizer is sold as part of the Cokin filter system. With Cokin filters, you buy a relatively inexpensive filter holder and then individual adapters that fit the diameters of your lenses, and this holder allows you to use the same filters (including circular polarizers) on all of your lenses. The investment in the filters is often more than buying them individually, but you are not limited in which lenses you can use them with. Cokin filter systems are also popular with photographers who use multiple filters (such a neutral density or graduate neutral density filters) in addition to a circular polarizer, as the filter holder allows you to more easily use multiple filters at the same time. The larger size of these filters eliminates the vignetting problem common when stacking circular filters.

If you are just starting out with photography and with filters, you may choose to purchase a single circular polarizing filter, which is what I did initially. Well-regarded brands for filters include Hoya andB+W. If you are further invested in photography, equipment, and lenses, you may want to consider the Cokin series of filters and holders. I am seriously considering making the switch myself when I can next justify the expense. Whichever you choose, you will soon find that a circular polarizer is an invaluable tool in helping improve your autumn (and really, all season) photographs.

Autumn Light through the Trees by Archaeofrog on Flickr, captured with a circular polarizer

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Photography Article Yes, Go Chasing Waterfalls|Photography Artist Statement

Waterfalls are a conventional photographic difficulty, and despite the TLC track, many photographers do spend day without work chasing waterfalls. With the right device and a little little bit of making plans, you may make the most out of your waterfall shots.

Equipment for Waterfalls

Many waterfall photographs feature the long, slow, "cotton candy" looking water that can only be achieved by using a long exposure, on the order of full seconds to even minutes. In order to successfully capture this kind of shot, it helps to have a few extra supplies with you. (After each suggestion, I will offer some 'how to cope without' tips in the parentheses.)

1. Tripod. A tripod will hold your camera steady for a longer shutter speed and can help you get angles or views that might be difficult while hand-holding. Read more about How to Maximize your Tripod for advice on using a tripod effectively. (If you do not have a tripod with you, try resting your camera on something steady like the ground, a rock, or a railing.)

This wide view of a waterfall in Mount Rainier turned into shot via putting the digicam down on the bridge.

2. Remote Shutter Release. A far off allows you to trigger your digital camera's shutter without touching the digital camera. This minimizes digital camera shake and allows you capture a steady, sharp image. A far off shutter release additionally lets in you to apply the 'Bulb' setting on your digital camera to get shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds. Read more approximately why Remote Shutter Releases are a Cheap and Easy Upgrade. (If you do not have a faraway with you, use the two-2d or 10-2d timer to your digital camera.)

three. Circular Polarizer. A round polarizer allows with waterfalls in two methods. First, it reduces the quantity of mild getting into your camera by using one or two stops, which allows you to shoot with a slower shutter pace. Second, turning the polarizer permits you to most effective document mild bouncing off the water in place of through it, which maximizes the sluggish water impact. Read greater approximately how a Circular Polarizer will improve your pictures and the way first-class to use one right here. (If you do now not have a polarizer, you could try taking pictures thru polarized sun shades, but this can add an unusual coloration solid for your pics.)

Sunglasses can mimic the effect of a polarizer however often add a shade cast.

Four. Neutral Density Filter. A impartial density clear out (everyday or variable) permits you to lessen the amount of mild getting into your camera. A regular neutral density clear out will lessen the light by means of a fixed quantity of stops, even as a variable neutral density clear out will let you range the quantity of stops. The darker the clear out, the less light that reaches your digicam, and the longer you could depart the shutter open. (If you do no longer have a impartial density clear out, you will no longer be capable of get the surely lengthy, sluggish shutter speeds.)

Making the Most of Your Waterfall Shots

Shoot in Aperture Priority or Manual Mode

When shooting waterfalls and trying to get the long, slow water look, you want to get the slowest shutter speed you can while still keeping the overall shot exposed properly. To do this, you want to set your ISO to 100 (or the lowest value on your camera) and your aperture to f/22 (or higher if you have it). If you are shooting in aperture priority mode, the camera will then calculate the longest shutter speed that it can for the given ISO and aperture. If the picture comes out too light or too dark, switch over to manual, dial in the same settings, and adjust the shutter speed as needed.

If you are able to use a shutter velocity longer than 30-seconds (possibly in case you are the use of a round polarizer in combination with a impartial density clear out), then you'll want to use the 'Bulb' placing in guide mode. In Bulb, the digicam will go away the shutter open as long as you press the shutter button or maintain down the faraway. Using a faraway with a lock permits you to preserve the shutter open as long as needed to get the shot.

Gorge of Waterfalls by Archaeofrog. Available for purchase.

Aim for Even Lighting

Waterfalls look best when they are shot under even lighting: either the entire scene is in direct sun or in the shade. Dappled light can be very pretty in real life but makes it difficult to properly expose for your waterfall shot. In the shot below, you can see that the parts of the falls in direct sunlight are too bright, while the shady sections are still dark. Cloudy, overcast, or just entirely shaded falls work best, as the lighting is already a little lower, and you can use a longer shutter speed.

The bright sunlight spots make this waterfall photograph uneven.

Provide a Sense of Scale

Waterfalls vary greatly in size from small ripples through stones to powerful behemoths with thousands of gallons of water pouring over each minute. Think about providing your viewer with a sense of scale or context when composing your waterfall shot.

Waterfall at Mendenhall Glacier

This composition emphasizes the strength and scale of this waterfall in Juneau, Alaska. The falls itself fills the complete body, and on my own, the viewer would haven't any concept as to the scale of the falling water. The addition of the couple, however, affords that needed feel of scale, and shall we the viewer understand some of the immensity of this waterfall.

Vary your Perspective

Many people look at waterfalls, take a shot of then head on from the bottom of the falls or an overlook, and move on. This can be a very lovely shot, but there is so much more than you can do.

Waterfall in Fall through Archaeofrog. Available for buy.

The image above is a greater conventional view of a waterfall. While it looks as if this was shot head-on from the lowest of the falls, it changed into actually shot quite a distance away with a zoom lens. This become the center of a sequence of falls in a narrow canyon, however zooming in locations you, as the viewer, lots closer to the falls than is sincerely possible for that vicinity.

Leaves inside the Falls by Archaeofrog. Available for buy.

Get up close and private together with your waterfall! While now not cautioned for all falls (know your limits), getting physically very close to a waterfall can provide a few high-quality taking pictures possibilities. This small waterfall passed off to be proper subsequent to a reasonably dry financial institution that allowed me to get proper up to it with my tripod with out truly having to wade through the move.

Above the Falls by way of Archaeofrog. Available for purchase.

Looking down from above is every other manner to alternate your angle and get a distinctive waterfall shot. In this one, the point of interest is lots greater on the swirling leaves inside the history than at the real waterfall itself. Again, an extended shutter pace (60 seconds in this case) made the swirling pattern obvious.

Forget the Waterfall Entirely

Both of these next shots are untraditional versions of waterfalls shots: the falls itself is not even visible.

Serene Swirls through Archaeofrog. Available for buy.

In this shot, the focal point is on the swirling leaves and the narrow gorge this is the placing for the waterfall. This photograph was a aggregate of photographs, one for 15 seconds to show for the swirling leaves and water, and one for 5 seconds to show for the brightly lit historical past.

A Wide Look at Fall by using Archaeofrog. Available for buy.

This shot is off the water just above the waterfall. Here, the water continues to be and its reflect-like surface displays the scene around it. This mirrored image is handiest slightly disturbed by means of the ripples as the water tactics the falls. The leaves inside the foreground carry a huge-perspective feel to this image. The key to taking pictures a photo like this one is to get the digicam bodily down low to the water and to shoot with a huge-angle lens (despite the fact that 18 mm was the widest that I had right here).

Waterfall Summary

If you want to shoot waterfalls and want to achieve the long, slow moving water style, then it helps to be prepared. Bring along a tripod, remote, circular polarizer, and neutral density filter, so that you can get longer shutter speeds, such as 15 or 30 seconds or even up to full minutes. Think about the lighting and try to plan your visit for a time when the waterfall and surrounding scene will be in full shade (or full clouds or overcast). Once you are there, do not be satisfied with just getting the 'classic' waterfall shot. Take some time to vary your perspective and include a sense of scale. Consider even forgetting about the waterfall entirely for some shots. You may be surprised to find that your favorite shots are those where you took the time to try something new.

Waterfall in Motion with the aid of Archaeofrog. Available for buy.

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