Photography Article Top 5 Informational Photography Posts on Boost Your Photography|Photography Artist Statement

This second post in our Top 5 countdown of Top 5 posts will feature the Top 5 Informational Photography Posts from 2013 on Boost Your Photography. (Yesterday's post was The Top 5 Travel Photography Posts of 2013.)  Many of these posts were featured as part of our series geared toward beginners, variously subtitled "Things Experts Forget to Tell You" or "Things that Your Forgot You Had to Learn." While many of these posts are geared towards photographers who are first learning how to use their DSLR camera, even those of us more experienced photographers may find something of value.

#5: Keeping Your Camera and Sensor Clean

Camera protection is a seriously essential, and regularly unnoticed, part of pictures. Your digital camera is continuously exposed to specific situations, weather, and circumstances, all of which could negatively effect your pics down the line. Read about Keeping Your Camera and Sensor Clean to learn the way excellent to guard your self and your digicam, and a way to address the predicted and unexpected hazards alongside the manner.

#four: All approximately Exposure

This component collection on exposure included All about Exposure and More on Exposure: a way to restoration common exposure problems. Exposure is a complicated topic, and whole books were written about it. (One such book, Understanding Exposure, become blanketed in my list of favored images books and authors.) These posts provide a thorough advent to the topic of exposure, along with a discussion of accurate and innovative exposure. You can even find recommendation for purchasing the right publicity in a given circumstance and hints like the usage of the AE Lock button or bracketing your pictures (as shown in the moon shots, above).

#3: How Long Does Your Camera's Battery Last?

Your camera's battery is important. Do you know how lengthy your camera's battery will final? This publish explains a simple technique for locating out (hinted at within the pics above), as well as realistic advice for keeping battery lifestyles and maintaining your batteries running properly for a long term.

#2: Why Won't My Lens Focus?

Focus changed into one of the troubles I struggled with at once once I commenced the use of my DSLR for the first time. Turned out that I become missing out on a few very simple statistics approximately lenses and focusing that might have cleared up quite a few my problems without delay. This put up explores the importance of focusing, wherein to recognition, and why your lens may not focus whilst you suppose it need to.

#1: Aperture and the F/Stop Conundrum

The primary Informational Photography Post on Boost Your Photography was Aperture and the F/Stop Conundrum, the primary in a sequence of four posts about aperture. The rest of the posts protected What an Aperture of F/1.Eight Can Do for You, What an Aperture of F/22 Can Do for You, and the Middle Range Apertures: f/8 to f/11.

For a completely long time, I discovered the language used round aperture to be very perplexing: the bigger vs. Smaller, wider vs. Narrower, shallower vs. Wider intensity of field all served to deepen my confusion as opposed to my information. This collection of posts sought to relieve this confusion and provide an explanation for the f/forestall conundrum once and for all.

Missed one of the Top 5 Top five posts?

• Top 5 Travel Photography Posts
• Top 5 Posts with Instant Inspiration Ideas for Photography
• Top 5 Guest Posts on Photography
• Top 5 "How To" Photography Posts

Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most out of your digital camera with practical advice about the technical and innovative components of DSLR photography a good way to have you taking stunning images right away.

Photography Article Aperture and the F/Stop Conundrum|Photography Artist Statement

When I first upgraded to my DSLR camera and started the use of it drastically, I discovered myself dealing with a whole style of problems, and for lots of them, I couldn?T discover clean answers on-line or in any of my beginning images books. I realized much later that a number of these problems had been so simple and essential that specialists who were taking pictures for a long time had in all likelihood forgotten that they had ever now not known a way to do such matters.

This is another article in an occasional series aimed at beginners called “Things Experts Forgot to Tell You” or “Things that You Forgot you had to Learn.” (Previous articles include Why Won’t My Lens Focus?,All about Exposure, and More about Exposure: how to fix common exposure problems.) Maybe you’ve just purchased your first DSLR camera or perhaps you’ve had one sitting around for awhile that you’ve been meaning to start using.  The next big steps are getting out there, figuring out what you and your camera are capable of, and learning where to get answers to your questions. While the first two steps are up to you, this series is an attempt to briefly cover some of the questions that might not have yet occurred to you to ask.

Aperture controls how a great deal of your photograph is in recognition. These leaves were shot at f/three.8.

Fall Leaves at F/3.8 by Archaeofrog on Flickr

Aperture, F/Stops, and the Difficulty of Talking about Fractions

Aperture is a value, expressed in a unit called f/stops, that refers to the relative size of the opening of your lens when you take a photograph. The bigger the opening, the more light that your camera lets in and the smaller the depth of field (the area of the subject in focus). The smaller the opening, the less light that you camera lets in, but the greater the depth of field (the more of your image that will be in focus). There was a brief discussion of the impact of aperture in the article Remember the Background and Move Your Feet.

Crab Apples at f/1.8 (left) and Close-Up Rose at f/22 (right)

In the images above, the left-hand image of the crab apple blossoms was shot with a wide aperture (f/1.8), which resulted in a very narrow slice of the photograph being in focus. As the further back flowers rapidly fall out of focus, the light on the very background flowers becomes merely giant circles or bokeh as they are known in photography. The right-hand image of the rose was shot with a narrow aperture (f/22), which resulted in the depth of field (the area in focus) extending through the entire image.

Here's what kept me confused about aperture for the longest time when I started getting serious about my photography and particularly when I started reading a lot of books and articles about photography: the terminology for aperture seemed hopelessly muddled. This is where the fractions come into play. (Now, don't get me wrong. My mother is a math teacher, and I have no problems with fractions, per se, but they definitely interfered with my reading of photography books in this instance.)

The f/stop number is actually a fraction, so you can think of the ones used in the example above as 1/1.8 and 1/22 instead.  Translate those into decimals, and you have 0.5 (repeating forever) and 0.045 (repeating 45 forever). This means that f/1.8 is actually a 'larger' number than f/22, even though intuitively you would look at them and assume that 22 is a 'larger' number than 1.8. So, when I was reading about larger or smaller apertures, I kept confusing that with what I was reading about wider or narrower apertures. Here it is restated as bullet points just to make it obvious.

• F/1.8 A larger aperture value (larger fraction) = a wider opening = more light coming in = shallower depth of field (much less in focus) and a faster relative shutter speed

• F/22 A small aperture value (smaller fraction) = a narrower opening = less light coming in = a wider depth of field (much more in focus) and a slower relative shutter speed

These two photographs were taken consecutively at f/1.Eight (left) and then f/18 (proper). This close to a topic at f/1.8, the depth of discipline is confined to the the front rim of the spoon and the row of stars immediately under.

Patriotic Spoon Reflection by Archaeofrog on Flickr What eventually helped me was just to focus on remembering what each aperture could do for me, photographically, and keep it at that.  All the larger/wider/smaller/narrower was just too much. If you understand what each end of the aperture spectrum can do for you, you will be well on your way for using aperture to achieve the look you want in your photographs.

Try It Out

Set your lens to aperture priority mode. (You will choose the aperture, and the camera will choose the shutter speed. Keep your ISO at 100.) Pick a subject and take two photographs: one with the aperture wide open (f/1.8 or as close as you can get) and another with a narrow aperture (f/22). Compare the two images. Think about whether one aperture better fit the subject you had chosen and why.

Stay tuned to continue our exploration of aperture with a discussion of what f/1.8 can do for you, what f/22 can do for you, and what about the rest? or check out more posts geared towards beginners. Click 'For Beginners' up at the top or try the rest of our series,Camera Settings and Strategies:

• All about Exposure: correct, creative, and equivalent exposures
• More about Exposure: how to fix common exposure problems in your photography
• Shutter Speed: an overview

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Photography Article Camera Lenses: What's in a Name?|Photography Artist Statement

If you have ever considered purchasing a camera lens, you may have noticed that the names of lenses often run to quite long lengths and contain whole lists of seemingly impenetrable numbers, letters, and abbreviations. This article will provide an overview about camera lenses, including an explanation of the different features and functions available on lenses.  Part 2 will cover the lens itself: all about your lens and how to get the most out of it and its features, and part 3 will cover recommended lens-related accessories.

Canon T1i and the Tamron 18-270 mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD (say that five times fast).

The full name of your lens gives you significant information about the features available with that lens. Lens names usually consist of four features: the brand, the range of focal lengths, the range of apertures, and abbreviations for important individual features.

Brand

There are many brands of camera lenses. Some brands, like Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Olympus, make lenses that are designed to be used with their own brand of camera bodies. Other brands, like Sigma and Tamron, make lenses that are designed to be used on a variety of different camera bodies. Most of these lenses are sold in different 'mounts,' so you need to purchase the mount that matches the brand of your camera. It is also possible to buy small adapters that allow you to use a camera lens with one mount on a camera body with another style of mount.

Some photographers are quite strict about only buying lenses made by the same company as their camera, while others appreciate the functionality and cost of other brands. 'Off-brand' lenses, like those by Sigma and Tamron, are often cheaper than their brand-name counterparts and are highly regarded. Reading a site like dpreview.com provides specific reviews and technical comparisons of different lenses and brands.

Focal Length

The second defining feature of a camera lens is the focal length or lengths. Focal length defines the view available from a given lens. Wide angle lenses often have focal lengths in the range of 11 to 18 mm, while zoom lenses have focal lengths into the 100s, with 200 mm being common and ranges like 400 to 600 mm as much more specialized. In between, of course, are what many think of as the 'standard' focal lengths, like 35 mm and 50 mm, which are considered to be the best approximation of the field of view that matches what we normally see and perceive with our eyes.

Comparison of the sphere of view of a huge focal duration (18 mm) and a narrow, zoomed-in focal length (270 mm).

Lenses are divided into two categories based on focal length. A prime lens gives best one focal duration, whilst a zoom lens gives quite a number focal lengths. (While slightly puzzling, a zoom lens can provide a variety of lengths on the wider cease, like 18-fifty five mm or eleven-14 mm, that do not provide a 'zoomed in' view of the scene. Here, 'zoom' refers to the capability of the lens to alternate focal lengths.)

Prime lenses benefit from being smaller, lighter, and more compact. They generally offer a wider range of aperture values (read What an Aperture of F/1.8 Can Do for You to learn about the benefits of a wide aperture). Zoom lenses are often larger and heavier but give you a variety of options about how to compose and frame your image from a single vantage. If you want to 'zoom in' with a prime lens, you need to do it with your feet. (Read Remember the Background and Move Your Feet and Zooming vs. Cropping: perspective in photography.)

Aperture

Another feature of lens names is the inclusion of the widest aperture value or values available for that lens. (For more on aperture, read our series, Aperture and the F/Stop Conundrum, and the specific articles about wide apertures, narrow apertures, and the 'who cares?' apertures.) For prime lenses, this will be a single number, such as f/1.8 or f/1.2. For zoom lenses, this may be a single number, such as f/2.8, which means that this aperture is available at any of the focal lengths for that lens. More commonly, zoom lenses have a range of aperture values, such as f/3.5-5.6, which means that f/3.5 is available for the widest focal length, while f/5.6 is the widest aperture available for the narrowest focal length.

Comparison of the impact of aperture f/4.Five and f/1.8

Abbreviations

The rest of the information in the name of your camera lens is abbreviations for certain features and functions of that lens. The most relevant of these abbreviations is the one that indicates whether you have a stabilized lens or not. A stabilized lens helps your camera compensate for the movements you make when hand-holding your camera and allows you to shoot stable photographs at slower shutter speeds than a non-stabilized lens. In most situations, it is worth the extra money to invest in stabilized lenses. The abbreviations for a stabilized lens include IS (image stabilization for Canon), VR (vibration reduction for Nikon), or VC (vibration control for Tamron). Despite the different abbreviations by brand, they refer to the same feature. The rest of the relevant abbreviations will be explained in more detail in the examples below.

An exaggeration of the impact of camera shake. This was shot hand-held for 1-second from a canoe.  The movement in the lines was caused by my hands and the canoe moving.

No Longer 'Lost in Translation'

To help you put it all together, here are a few examples of lens names with translation.

Many Canon Rebels deliver with the Canon EF-S 18-fifty five mm f/3.Five-5.6 IS II SLR lens, and many entry-stage Nikon cameras deliver with the Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens.

• Canon EF-S is the brand of the lens (Canon) and the indicator that it works only on crop sensor cameras. Nikon is the brand of the lens (Nikon) and the DX is the indicator that it works only on crop sensor cameras. (Full frame cameras are a significant investment and use more expensive lenses as well.)
• 18-55 mm indicates the focal range of the lens. Both lenses can shoot from wide angle (18 mm) to a more zoomed in 55 mm.
• F/3.5-5.6 indicates the aperture range of the lens. For these lenses, it means that you have a maximum wide aperture of f/3.5 at 18 mm but only f/5.6 at 55 mm.
• IS stands for image stabilization and VR stands for vibration reduction. These indicate that both of these are a stabilized lenses.
• II means that this is the second version of this lens, and SLR means that is it for single-lens reflex cameras. AF-S is the name of the silent motor in the Nikon lens. Nikkor is the higher level brand of lens for Nikon cameras. Zoom lens means that it has more than one focal length available.

When upgrading from a package lens, many photographers pick a 50 mm lens for their next buy, which includes the Canon EF 50 mm f/1.Eight II or the Nikon 50 mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor lens.

• Canon EF means that this lens will work with both crop and full frame sensors, and Nikon/Nikkor AF means the same.
• 50 mm is the focal length of the lens. This is a prime lens, as it has only the one focal length, not a range like in the zoom lenses above.
• F/1.8 is the maximum aperture opening available. Read more about what f/1.8 can do for you.
• II means that this is the second version of this lens for Canon.
• Neither of these lens offer image stabilization / vibration reduction, because the wide aperture of f/1.8 means that you can reasonably hand-hold this lens at many shutter speeds.

My subsequent lens purchase, after the 50 mm, become the Tamron 18-270 mm f/3.5-6.Three Di II VC PZD. This is the 'walkaround' lens this is on my digital camera the majority of the time. Tamron additionally makes a 70-two hundred mm f/2.Eight DI VC USD.

• Tamron is a third-party lens and is sold in different mounts for Canon, Nikon, and Sony cameras. The Di II means that it will work only with crop sensor cameras.
• 18-270 mm indicates the focal range of the lens. This lens can shoot from wide angle (18 mm) to a substantial zoom of 270 mm.
• F/3.5-6.3 indicates the aperture range of the lens. For this lens, it means that you have a maximum wide aperture of f/3.5 at 18 mm and of f/6.3 at 270 mm.
• VC stands for vibration control and works the same as IS (Canon) and VR (Nikon) lenses to help you hand-hold your lens more successfully.
• PZD is for the Piezo Drive motor that runs the lens.

A distinction in just a few letters can translate to a huge distinction in price, so it is critical to understand precisely which lens features you want and want. For instance, the surprisingly appeared Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens fees round $six hundred USD, while its image stabilized counterpart, the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro Lens, runs almost twice that at $1,050 USD. If you are planning on taking pictures all your macro shots with a tripod, you then won't select to pay for the picture stabilization, however in case you are going to be chasing rapidly moving topics like butterflies or insects and need at hand-hand the digital camera, then you definitely have a pricey choice to make. (Want to obtain macro or close-up pictures with out either of those pricey lenses? Check out my collection of articles on macro and near-up photography.)

Summary: what is in a call for digital camera lenses

There are a lot of factors to consider when purchasing a lens, and it is important to know what all of the information in the name means. Take some time to look at the lenses that you already have and see what features, apertures, and focal lengths you have at your disposal. The next article in this series will take a look at lenses themselves and talk through each of the different buttons, adjustable rings, and other features to help you get the most out of the lenses you already have. The third article will cover recommended lens-related accessories.

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